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Window Tint DIY Kit |
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I have also included some video files to demonstrate basic installation procedure, please click on the version suitable for your internet connection (files are in Windows media format .wmv and will open in a new browser window)
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(Note: I hope to improve these videos when I get the hang of video editing for the Internet)
First you need to have both of your bottles filled with the correct liquids.
One bottle requires water only - it is best to use the cleanest water you can find. The reason for this is to minimise the amount of small particles being trapped between film and glass. These particles appear many times larger than they really are, they do not cause a problem but may be visually annoying. Bottled distilled water is available from many shops and hardware stores and is the preferred choice. If that is not available then filtered tap water, and if not that, then plain tap water will have to suffice.
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The other bottle requires a detergent mix. The recommended choice is "Baby Shampoo" or a quality "pH Neutral" (not acidic or alkaline) dishwashing liquid such as Cussons Morning Fresh. The 1litre trigger spray bottle requires approximately 1 drink bottle cap (coke or similar) full of shampoo/detergent topped up with water. The pump spray bottle requires approximately a little over 1 drink bottle cap (coke or similar) of shampoo/detergent topped up with water. You may need to adjust this mix to provide the correct amount of "slip" for the film and squeegee. It is easier to add a bit more shampoo/detergent rather than add more water. |
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Cutting 1
You will need a cutting surface for the film.
I recommend a cotton/canvas painters drop sheet of approximately 3 metres by 2 metres (9 foot x 6 foot). See photo 1
You will need an open area of floor space to lay this on - if you have a large table bench this is even better, but not necessary.
Photo 1
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Cutting 2
You will also need a straight edge.
An off-cut of aluminium window channel is ideal as is a 2 metre metal rule. See photo 2
If neither of these is available, then a broom handle or other "straight edge" will suffice.
Make sure with the aluminium off-cut that there are no burrs or rough edges - use a file and sandpaper to smooth if necessary. Burrs may scratch or otherwise damage the film.
photo 2
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Cutting 3
Use your cutting plan to assist you with the film cutting (the one you drew up to when measuring your windows).
Roll out the film onto the drop sheet and check the width - the film should be either 36, 48 or 60 inches wide.
Next cut the film according to your plan - cut the length and width as per plan - make sure you are cutting the film "square" to film edge.
Remember the panels should be a little bigger than the windowpanes they are being fitted to.
It may be advisable to have an assistant to help with cutting larger pieces of film.
Note: if using the one-person roll installation method (see video); roll your cut pieces of film so that the backing sheet (slippery side) is to the inside of roll - roll film top to bottom, not side to side.
Photo 3
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Cleaning 1
Go to the first window you intend to tint - I recommend the smallest window to start with.
Place an old towel (or similar) at the base of window frame to collect soap and water run-off.
Using your soap mix (shampoo/detergent) - spray the entire pane so that it is covered with soapy water as in Photo 4.
Photo 4
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Cleaning 2
Using the small scraper, work your way around the edge of the window. Scrape along the edge of the window rubber to remove all dirt, grease, paint or sticky tape etc. Hold the scraper at the angle as in Photo 5
If the window frame is timber then you probably have a hard putty edge - this usually breaks away small pieces of putty - this is normal.
Some metal frame windows will have a soft, sticky putty - use plenty of soapy water and cut the putty to the frame edge first then scrape off excess putty.
Photo 5
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Cleaning 3
Next you need to clean the rest of the window.
If you purchased the advanced toolkit, then use the large scraper as in Photo 6.
Otherwise use the small scraper to clean the rest of the window.
When done, soap up the window again. Use the scouring sponge and go over all the glass area so that it is soapy.
Photo 6
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Cleaning 4
Using a "dish wiping cloth", dry the top edge of the window glass and frame by starting at one corner and "wiping" across to the other top corner in one motion as in photo 7.
This should leave the top edge of your window dry, with no soap/water running down onto glass area.
Photo 7
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Cleaning 5
Starting at the same top corner as in wiping procedure - Use your squeegee (whichever you have, large or small) and pull it across the window as in photo 8.
Keep the rubber blade up against the top window edge. Use light pressure.
Make sure that the squeegee end at the top travels a little bit in front of the bottom - this ensures that water and soap runs off the bottom end of the squeegee and not off the top end of the squeegee.
The top edge of the window should now be dry.
Photo 8
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Cleaning 6
Using the same technique, work your way down the window. Pull the squeegee from one side to the other as in photo 9.
Remember to keep the top end of the squeegee travelling a little in front of the bottom end.
Your window should no be dry, except for the side and bottom edges.
Photo 9
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Cleaning 7
Starting at the top of one side, use the water only bottle and spray into the frame edge as in photo 10.
Spray so that the water is sprayed across the glass that is still wet with soap and dirt from the previous procedure.
Spray on a slight downward angle and move slowly down the side of window.
This gradually rinses all dirty/soapy water off the glass edge and frame towards the bottom.
Repeat on the other side, and then rinse the bottom edge as well. Your window is now clean.
Photo 10
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Installating 1
Next you need another window on which to peel the film's backing sheet off. You can span 2 or more windows if the film is a large piece. (or you may use a large sheet of builders plastic taped onto a wall).
If using a window, make sure you have cleaned it so that no dirt will run onto the film.
Lightly spray water onto the window as in photo 11 so that there are droplets of water all over the glass - this will hold the film in place while you remove the protective backing sheet.
Photo 11
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Note
The film has two sides - one side when rubbed against itself will be "grabby" and will not slide easily, this is the scratch resistant-coated side of the film. - This is the film!
The other side will be slippery when rubbed against itself; this is the protective backing sheet or "liner" on the adhesive side of the film.
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Installating 2
To separate film from the liner (protective backing sheet), you will need to place a small piece of masking tape on each side of one corner of the film.
Next pull apart the two pieces of tape and this will separate the liner from the film as in photo 12.
Spray this corner with the soap mix so that the liner does not stick to the film again.
Photo 12
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Installating 3
Place the film onto the wet window (or plastic sheet), as in photo 13, so that the "liner" is facing you.
It is easier if the top edge of the sheet of film is also the edge that will be placed on the top edge of the window to be tinted.
Photo 13
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Installating 4
Hold the film corner onto the wet glass and peel the liner away in a downward motion until all the liner is removed from the film as in photo 14.
If the film is a large sheet, you may need an assistant to hold the other corner in place while you peel the liner off.
This now leaves the adhesive side of the film exposed and facing you.
Photo 14
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Installating 5
Spray the entire adhesive side of the film with the soap mix, make sure it is wet with droplets of soapy water as in photo 15.
If you spray too much soap mix, most will run off - so try not to "drown" the film.
Now, pick up the two top corners of the film and remove from window. Place the film adhesive side (soapy) onto the window you are tinting. Place the top edge with a small 1-2 mm gap from the frame edge. The film should overhang the sides and bottom of the window.
Photo 15
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Installating 6
Spray the back of the film with the soap mix, make sure it is wet as in photo 16
Photo 16
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Installating 7
Pull the squeegee down the center of the film, this helps to locate the film onto the window.
Film should look similar to photo 17.
Photo 17
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Installating 8
To squeegee the film, you will now need to push the squeegee, not pull it - this pushing effect removes more soap mix/water from under the film than pulling the squeegee and shortens drying time.
Starting with the top of the film, squeegee across from the center to one side (as in photo 18), but not right to the edge - do not squeegee the last 1 inch/25mm of film near the edge.
Use firm, but not heavy pressure (if unsure use light pressure and increase gradually). If you are bowing the glass then you are using too much pressure.
Do this 2 or 3 times across one side then repeat for other side of window - center to side.
Continue alternating from one side to the other till all film is squeegeed except for the side and bottom edges.
Photo 18
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Installating 9 If you find that there is some dirt, putty or other stuff under the film, you will need to carefully peel back the film onto itself as in photo 19. Spray the dirty area with soap mix and rub lightly with your finger, then rinse with water. When you are happy that the dirt is gone, spray with soap mix and place film back on glass, then re-squeegee that area of film. Do not try to remove all dirt, you'll only make it worse. The dirt will not harm the film or alter it's performance. But do remove any lumps or grains of sand, they may cause the film to tear when getting final squeegee. |
Photo 19
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Installating 10 With all but the side and bottom edges squeegeed, you now need to trim off the excess film. Spray the film edges with soap mix to provide slip for the trimming guide. Use the 5 way tool as a trimming guide (I use a custom made guide). Place the guide on top of the film, up against the window frame or rubber edge as in photo 20.
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Photo 20
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Installating 11 Use sharp Olfa knife (snap off blades as they become dull - a dull blade will tear the film). Place the knife up against the guide (as in photo 21, sorry about the knife reflection) and slowly slide the guide down the film. This keeps the knife blade a consistent distance from the window edge and leaves an even gap. Repeat on the other side and on the bottom edge. The gap is necessary fro the film to dry correctly. |
Photo 21
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Installating12 Keep the knife and guide handy to re-cut any film that wasn't cut all the way through as in photo 22. Starting with the top, pick up the scrap film and slowly pull down and away from the window. Peel away slowly and stop if film doesn't appear to be cut through. Re- cut when necessary. Repeat on other side and bottom of window. |
Photo 22
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Installating 13 After removing all scrap film, re-spray the film with soap mix again. Squeegee from center to sides again, this time right to the film and window edge as in photo 23. If you purchased the Advanced toolkit, use the Yellow Turbo or Blue Max finishing squeegee. If you have the standard squeegee, just use a little more pressure to finish, but not heavy pressure. |
Photo 23
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Installating 14 Finally use some kitchen paper towel. Fold towel in half, then place spear/bumping card (gold) on to towel and fold over edge as in photos 24 & 25. |
Photo24
photo 25
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Installating 15 Use bumping card to dry squeegee the edge of the film by pushing card towards edge of film, repeat for the side and bottom edges of the film as in photo 26.
That's it, you've successfully tinted a window. Now just repeat the procedure on your other windows. Top |
Photo 26
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-------------------------------------------------------------------- The film you have just installed will take approximately 2 days to dry and about 3 weeks to fully cure onto the glass. During this time it is advisable not to clean the windows, especially during the first day or so as the film is literally just resting on the glass. During the first few days the film may go a little "cloudy or milky" in appearance as the adhesive starts bonding with the glass - this is normal, it will go clear again. Sometimes as the film dries it may become apparent that there are tiny spots in the film (usually towards the edges) - this is usually just small particles of dust that were attracted to the film by the static electricity when the backing sheet was removed. These dust particles are trapped under the film, but will not effect the performance or durability of the film - they are usually very small and not noticeable when looking through a window (they are only seen when looking at the window). When you do clean your windows, usually water and a soft cloth or paper towel is adequate. You may add some mild detergent to help remove stubborn dirt and/or grease. --------------------------------------------------------------------
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